This jewel box of a restaurant evokes turn-of-the-20th-century Vienna. The elegant bar is alight with shimmering mosaic swirls, and the diminutive dining room is lined with sparkling Klimt reproductions. To sample the breadth of David Bouley's nouveau Austrian cuisine, try the multicourse degustation. A signature wine soup with smoked trout crepes is delicious, as are the braised beef cheeks, which might be served with Zweigelt wine sauce, spaetzle, and ramps. The wine list is notable for hard-to-find Austrian and German labels. The food rises to the heights of the Austrian Alps, but the service still has some climbing to do before it reaches the summit.
Address: 30 Hudson St., at Duane St.
Phone: 212/791-3771. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. AE, D, MC, V. Closed Sun.